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On a sticky afternoon, I relish the smoky edge of a cup of lapsang souchong.

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And at a party in late spring, I also tried a genius non-alcoholic cocktail.

And then, of course, there's wine.

Wine: Thomas Mitchell Marsanne Photograph: fullstopphotography.

Try it with oily fish, say swordfish barbecued with a squeeze of citrus.

It was made by bartender using pink grapefruit juice and elderflower cordial topped up with soda — you can juggle around with the quantities until the balance of sweet and sour suits your taste — and was so good it kept me from the perilous third martini of the night.

My bottle was actually a little too nettley and almost painfully linear because it was reduced, but once I'd poured it into a jug and swilled it round with a few copper coins, it emerged as graceful, steely and proud as a good sancerre.

This is a white that grabs you by the eyeballs.